Tyrolean traverse

A Tyrolean traverse is a method of crossing through free space between two high points on a rope without a hanging cart or cart equivalent. This is used in a range of mountaineering activities: rock climbing, technical tree climbing, caving and water crossings. A zip-line is in essence a Tyrolean traverse which is traveled down quickly with the assistance of gravity. In rock climbing a Tyrolean traverse is most often used to return to the main part of a wall after climbing a detached pillar. Lost Arrow Spire, a detached pillar in Yosemite Valley, is often abseiled using a dramatic Tyrolean traverse. There are many ways to anchor the line at the two high points but the significant feature is that there is a line strung between them.[1]

Many classic locations for Tyrolean traverses have since been used as locations for highlining, especially slacklining at great heights. In a sense completing such a slackline would count as a Tyrolean traverse but since slacklines are not used as a form of transportation this is not entirely accurate. With the rise in popularity and the relative decline in the use Tyrolean traverse by the climbing community the terms "highlining" and "Tyrolean traverse" have been somewhat confused due to obvious overlaps in the nature of the activity, including preparation and location.

Traveling across a Tyrolean traverse varies from purely using one's hands and legs to the use of prusiks, one way pulleys, or ascenders. In most modern situations the traverse is secured to the line through some combination of climbing harness, webbing, carabiner, and/or pulleys.

The technique has been used in a few first ascents and first summitings in which the rope was secured to desired summit by lassoing it.

There are situations in which a Tyrolean traverse is the preferred way to descend a route, a Tyrolean traverse may allow a climber to avoid a long multi-pitch rope rappel in favor of a walk-off (walking descent); or a Tyrolean traverse may allow the climber to avoid an undesirable or dangerous location such as a steep scree field.

Present Guinness record for Tyrolean traverse belongs to Bulgaria. It was made between peaks Maliovitsa and Orlovets in national park Rila (Distance 1550 meters).

References

  1. ^ Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (6th Revised ed.), Swan Hill Press, 1997-10-14, ISBN 9781840370010